The Ultimate Argentina Travel Guide: 2 Weeks in Argentina

The below 2 weeks in Argentina itinerary has been put together based on my experience living in Argentina for a year. Logistically, the itinerary is achievable and will provide you with the experience of a lifetime. So, let’s get to it.

Argentina is South America’s second largest country, by some distance. Comprising 2.8 million sq km (that’s more than 11 times larger than the U.K), it is impossible to see the country to its entirety in 2 weeks.

That said, it is still possible to see the cultural, natural and architectural differences between the far north, the centre and south of this magnificent country. In fact, I would even go as far as to say you can scratch beyond the surface with this time frame.

This 2 weeks in Argentina itinerary hones in on each of these points, from Misiones Province in the north, to Patagonia in the south. In the event that you are visiting Argentina for 3 or 4 weeks, or perhaps even a full term, please feel free to browse my bonus Argentina travel tips.

A 2 weeks in Argentina itinerary

This is how I would divide my time in order to visit the places below.

• Day 1 - 4 – Buenos Aires, Argentina’s magnificent capital
• Days 4 - 6 – Visiting the Argentinian side of Iguazú Falls
• Days 6 – 8 - Hiking with gauchos and tasting Malbec in Mendoza
• Days 8 - 12 - Trekking the glaciers in stunning Patagonia
• Days 12 - 14 - Wind down and enjoy Buenos Aires before departing

Days 1-4: Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is a city described as the Paris of South America. It is South America’s most European city in terms of gastronomy and architecture, mostly due to its Italian and Spanish heritage.

Many travellers arrive in Buenos Aires and leave soon after in order to squeeze in the other places that Argentina has to offer. I would advise against this.

Instead, allow yourself the full ‘porteño’ experience and spend 3 full days here. Your Argentina trip starts in Buenos Aires, and it should not be seen simply as a hub.

Buenos Aires boasts stunning architecture, the best red meat in the world, full-bodied wines, two of South America’s largest football teams, and tango shows galore.

What to do in Buenos Aires

I would spend the first day wandering the streets of Recoleta and Palermo, two of Buenos Aires’ most impressive neighbourhoods.

The Beaux-Arts architecture in Recoleta is unique in this part of the world and will remind you of Paris. A visit to The Recoleta Cemetery is compulsory.

Opposite, there is a row of slightly overpriced but high quality grill restaurants. Teatro Colón and El Ateneo Grand Splendid are also must-visit attractions in Recoleta.

The latter is a former theatre turned bookshop!

If you are not comfortable walking the streets of Buenos Aires alone then I recommend a walking tour with a qualified guide.

Whilst the city is safer than many South American cities, it is not without crime. Unfortunately, tourists are often the victims.

San Telmo: The Charming Corner of Buenos Aires

During my time living in Buenos Aires, I lived in the shabby chic San Telmo neighbourhood, home to pop-up art galleries, late-night bars and street murals.

The main food market, el Mercado de San Telmo, has been newly renovated and now caters for tourists in high numbers. The food on offer at this market is exceptional and worth tasting.

I recommend visiting San Telmo on a Sunday. On this day, the San Telmo market (not to be confused with the food market) brings thousands of tourists and locals alike.

Every Sunday between 10AM and 4PM, more than 270 street vendors come together to sell artisanal products and antiques.

I recommend planning your 2 weeks in Argentina so that you have a Sunday in Buenos Aires. It is worth it if only so that you are able to experience this market.

Where to Eat in Buenos Aires

Argentina is best known for its steak and its empanadas. Nowhere else is this better than in Buenos Aires.

San Telmo is a good place to get your taste buds tingling before your 2 weeks in Argentina.

I recommend a visit to Restaurante La Brigada. This restaurant is expensive but a real dining experience.

La Brigada boasts wines from more than 60 Argentinian bodegas (wineries) and waiters will cut your steak with a spoon to emphasise its tenderness.

Not all dining experiences in Buenos Aires need to be expensive. The city is filled with restaurants which cater for all budgets. Look out for any ‘parrilla’ which is usually a typical hole in the wall restaurant serving a range of beef and pork cuts.

To learn about the culture of Argentina, sign up for a food experience to learn about food in Argentina. I would also put time aside for a gourmet food tour around Recoleta, the neighbourhood which houses the cemetery and famous book store, El Ateneo Grand Splendid.

Nobody should spend 3 nights in Buenos Aires without first visiting a tango show. There are, quite literally, hundreds of places where you can do see quality, authentic tango.

I would avoid La Boca at night at all costs. I often visited Cafe Tortoni, once frequented by the famous Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges.

Here, in the evening, you can watch tango and drink your body weight in red. It is also a safe area, with taxis outside and ready for your departure.

Days 4-6: Visiting Iguazú Falls

The Iguazú Falls are, in a word, spectacular. They reside on the border of the Argentine province of Misiones and the Brazilian state of Paraná.

Combined, they create the largest waterfall in the world. In my opinion, a visit to Iguazú Falls is compulsory during your 2 weeks in Argentina.

What to do in Iguazú Falls

Many Argentina itineraries will recommend heading to the south of Argentina first. I would avoid this, however, as it means a trip to Iguazú Falls will later require a connection in Buenos Aires.

Whilst the bus is an option and, due to a lack of rail infrastructure, a comfortable way to travel in Argentina, you only have 2 weeks. For this reason, fly from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazú.

There is little else to do in the province of Misiones except visit the waterfall, although this is not an issue for obvious reasons.

Upon arrival, head straight to the Argentine side of Iguazú Falls. Trekking around in the jungle and admiring the stunning scenery will take over a day, so do not rush.

I took a guided tour that includes a boat ride that takes you right into the waterfalls. You will most likely purchase a poncho beforehand, but this will prove redundant.

Believe me, you will get drenched. This boat trip will be a certain highlight from your 2 weeks in Argentina.

If you would like to visit Brazil then you will need to cross the border. From Brazil, you can repeat yesterday’s activities but with new landscapes and see the falls from a different perspective.

If you choose to do this then you will need a visa (most likely). Make sure this is arranged beforehand to avoid disappointment. Also, make sure you are vaccinated for Yellow Fever before visiting Iguazú Falls.

Instead of crossing the border to see the falls from the Brazilian side, I went to Hito Tres Fronteras. This stunning viewpoint provides views of Brazil and Paraguay, whilst you stand in Argentina.

Days 6-8: Mendoza, Home to Fine Wine and Restaurants

Mendoza is not included on many 2 weeks in Argentina itineraries given the plethora of other places to visit.

You could quite easily consider Salta, Jujuy or Bariloche instead, and you would not be in the wrong for doing so.

However, Mendoza was a personal favourite of mine due to my experience horseback riding with gauchos, sampling full-bodied red wine from local bodegas, and sharing asado, or grilled beef, with the gauchos around a campfire at sunset.

In terms of timing, you can spend anywhere between 2 - 4 days in Mendoza, but just remember that it will impact your 2 week itinerary if you decide to stay longer than expected.

Mendoza is also popular amongst tourists that like whitewater rafting and mountain biking, although I chose a slower pace during my visit!

Mendoza is home to three wine producing regions, all of which can be visited during your time here. I chose to horseback ride as part of a guided tour with gauchos.

Not only did they teach me to ride one-handed, gaucho style, but they also prepared an asado for my tour group. It was a long day, so pack suncream and stay hydrated!

During my time in Mendoza, I took a tour to Atuel Canyon in Valle Grande, Mendoza Province.

Whilst the scenery is absolutely sensational, many tours take tourists in small mini-buses and, for me, the distance between the city and Valle Grande is far too long for such shenanigans.

Other activities worth checking out in Mendoza include a visit to the thermal spas near Mendoza city, and a guided walking tour around the inner city.

Mendoza has many pretty squares, wide boulevards and leafy avenues. Although it is a city in almost every way, you will notice a difference when comparing it with Buenos Aires.

The pace of life is much slower, and it’s interesting to watch the locals go about their daily lives.

Days 8 - 12: El Calafate and El Chaltén

Many people visit Argentina solely for Patagonia. I would not blame them for doing so - the region is the most beautiful places I have visited to date, rivalled only by Vietnam.

From Mendoza, you will fly to El Calafate, potentially changing first in Buenos Aires.

Here, you can settle in and acclimatise. The weather differs greatly to the rest of Argentina, and you will leave a hot, sticky, humid Misiones and dry, intense heat in Mendoza for cold and ferocious winds.

Nonetheless, El Calafate provides an opportunity to walk on its most famous glacier, Perito Moreno. This ice glacier and natural ice damn is a whopping 250 km² - 30km in length and 5km in width.

It is paradise for adventure lovers and anybody who enjoys the great outdoors.

El Chaltén offers something entirely different, with a plethora of walking routes, natural parks, wildlife and natural beauty. El Chaltén is also home to the spectacular mountain ‘Monte Fitz Roy’ which lies on the border between Argentina and Chile.

How to get to El Calafate and El Chaltén

You can fly from Buenos Aires direct to El Calafate – of course, you can also take a bus but, as mentioned earlier, with only 2 weeks in Argentina, flying is your only real feasible option.

In El Calafate, you can book a tour which will take you across the ice - trek across the ice or take a boat tour. Alternatively, you can view the glacier from around the park.

Every 5 or 10 minutes, pieces of Perito Moreno glacier crumble, falling over 200 ft into the waters below. I captured footage of this experience but proceeded to lose my phone in El Chaltén, so I am unable to share the video with you!

El Chaltén is definitely worth visiting but it is a tourist trap in the sense that anybody visiting the glaciers has nowhere else to go. It will be the most expensive stop during your 2 weeks in Argentina itinerary so prepare for the higher prices!

I did not visit bar de hielo but I read online that a visit to this ice bar in El Calafate enables visitors to watch flamingos on Lago Argentina, the country’s largest freshwater lake. This is on my to-do list for the next time I visit Argentina.

When you are finished in El Calafate, you can either drive or take a bus to El Chaltén. I was with friends and we hired a car in the town centre with Hertz. The journey time from El Calafate to El Chaltén is 2-3 hours.

Even the most seasoned of travellers will be in awe of El Chaltén. Sandwiched between clifftops, the town is stunning from all angles.

El Chalten: What to do and where to go

Once in El Chaltén, hike one of the many trails around Monte Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. On any clear day the views are simply spectacular. Be sure to take comfortable walking boots and outdoor trekking gear. The hikes in El Chaltén vary in length between 3 and 20 kilometres.

Other activities on offer in El Chaltén include mountain biking, kayaking and…drinking.

The town has a popular and relatively famous craft beer scene. No matter the weather, which is probably windy, be sure to take part in your own organised bar crawl, popping in and out of the town’s several bars for craft beers and empanadas!

Days 12-14: Return to Buenos Aires

A return to Buenos Aires on your 12th or 13th day will allow plenty of time for a smooth and stress free departure. Of course, the above 2 weeks in Argentina itinerary is a guide only and can be adjusted accordingly based on personal preferences, logistics and any unforeseen circumstances.

As previously mentioned, many people who choose to travel in Argentina skip Mendoza in order to spend more time in the north of Argentina, particularly Salta and Jujuy. Other cities to explore, if time permits, are Bariloche and Córdoba.

Other cities in Argentina: Salta, Jujuy and Bariloche

Incorporating the north of Argentina into your 2 weeks in Argentina itinerary means more time and more money.

You will need to fly and it is far from the rest of the country’s most popular cities and viewpoints.

However, the north of Argentina is beautiful and boasts its own unique landscapes, wines and gastronomy scene.

If you are determined, you will be able to visit the north and the south, skipping Mendoza.

What to do in Salta and Jujuy

Fly into Salta. From Puerto Iguazú, you can fly directly to Salta on Aerolíneas Argentinas three days a week (these change year on year so check beforehand).

On the other four days you will need to change in Buenos Aires, which is the wrong way!

In Salta, you will need a car, and there is no way out of this. The towns worth visiting: Humahuaca, Purmamarca and Tilcara. In Purmamarca, visit Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colours).

Its unique colour range is the product of a complex geological history, with layer upon layer of pastel-coloured rock providing a view like no other.

Bariloche is Argentina’s chocolate capital and the perfect place to divulge.

• Taste chocolate in Argentina’s chocolate capital. Or take a food tour to discover more of Bariloche’s culinary delights.
• Explore the Ruta de los Siete Lagos, a stunning drive through the area’s seven lakes. If you’ve got more time, you can even bike the route.
• Discover the natural beauty of Arrayanes forest.
• Bike the Circuito Chico for beautiful views.
• Book an incredible degustation dinner overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi at Butterfly (reservations only), just a few kilometres out of the city.

If you don’t want to hire a car, you can take day trips from Salta, or tour operators can arrange multi-day trips to the highlights, including to Salinas Grandes, the second largest salt flats in South America.

Next, head south to Cafayate, Argentina’s second wine region, where you can taste your way through several wineries.

The Torrontés varietal is what’s famous here and it’s one of my favourite wines. Here’s a guide to the Cafayate wine region.

Before you fly out, spend a day in Salta, the attractive capital city of the province of the same name.

Join a walking tour of the city or visit the Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña.

Here, you will see the mummified bodies of sacrificed Incan children. Only one child is displayed at a time, mesmerisingly frozen in time.

More places to add to your Argentina itinerary

It was incredibly hard to narrow down this Argentina itinerary to just two weeks!

There are so many parts of the country that I love. If you’ve got a bit more time up your sleeve or other interests (maybe you want to spend more time hiking, maybe you – quite rightly! – want to go wine tasting) you can add on some extra regions to your Argentina travel itinerary.

Again, if you need help planning two weeks in Argentina, drop a comment below and I’ll help you out.

Bariloche

• Taste chocolate in Argentina’s chocolate capital. Or take a food tour to discover more of Bariloche’s culinary delights.
• Explore the Ruta de los Siete Lagos – a stunning drive through the area’s seven lakes. If you’ve got more time, you can even bike the route!
• Discover the natural beauty of Arrayanes forest.
• Bike the Circuito Chico for beautiful views.
• Book an incredible degustation dinner overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi at Butterfly (reservations only), just a few kilometres out of the city.

Ushuaia

• Get up close to penguins at the end of the world.
• Ride the End of the World Train and hike in Tierra del Fuego National Park.
• Explore the surrounding lakes by 4WD.
• Get out on the water and see seals and birdlife in the Beagle Channel.

Península Valdés

• Go whale watching in Peninsula Valdés.
• You can also see sea lions, elephant seals and penguins in the area.

Córdoba

• If you visit around Octoberfest, join in the celebrations in Villa General Belgrano.
• Explore the beautiful cabildo and cathedral in the city centre.
• Have a picnic in Sarmiento Park and watch local families spending time together on the weekend.

Esteros del Iberá

• Spend time exploring the Iberá wetlands and spot capybara, caiman, black howler monkeys, the maned wolf, deer and more than 300 bird species.

Essential info to know for your Argentina trip

Visas for Argentina

In the past few years Argentina has suspended the costly “reciprocity fee” that Australians, Canadians and Americans had to pay to enter the country.

It’s now possible for Canadians, Australians, U.S. and New Zealand nationals, and citizens of most Western European countries to arrive without a visa.

As always, when it comes to visas, don’t rely on me – check with your local embassy or consulate for the latest information.

How to get to Argentina

There are direct flights to Buenos Aires, the capital city of Argentina, from North America, the United Kingdom, Australia, Europe and South Africa, as well as from most South American countries.

Buenos Aires has two airports: Ezeiza (EZE), which serves international flights, and Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP), which handles domestic flights and some international flights to Uruguay and other nearby countries.

The two airports are 41 kilometres apart, so if you do have a connection upon arrival, make sure you plan your travel accordingly, as the trip between the two can take more than two hours in peak hour traffic.

There are overland crossings into Argentina from Chile (a stunning journey across the Andes that I would love to take; multiple border crossings), Uruguay (multiple border crossings; the ferry between Buenos Aires and Colonia del Sacramento is the most popular), Brazil (at Puerto Iguazú), Bolivia and Paraguay.

How to travel around Argentina

As I mentioned, Argentina is a HUGE country. To see Argentina in 2 weeks, then flying is going to be your best bet.

The two major airlines in Argentina are Latam and Aerolíneas Argentina, which both have an extensive network throughout the country.

Be aware that you often need to connect in Buenos Aires if you’re flying around the country. This is improving and there are more direct routes on offer, but there are still major cities that aren’t directly connected by air.

Domestic flights are expensive and foreigners are often charged more.

If you’re okay with taking long-distance buses (and planning overnight travel to maximise your 2 weeks in Argentina) then rest assured that the country has an excellent bus network, offering comfortable seats and food on board in many cases.

Bus rides are long here – a trip between Buenos Aires and Puerto Iguazú, for instance, takes around 20 hours. That trip also only costs around US$50 so it is far more economical than flying.

The Estación Terminal de Omnibus (Avenida Ramos Mejía 1680) in Buenos Aires, also known as the Retiro Bus Station, is the hub for all long-distance buses.

When to visit Argentina

You can visit Argentina all year round, but deciding the best time to visit Argentina really depends on what you want to do on your Argentina trip.

December to February is summer and is the best time to visit Patagonia. Buenos Aires can get very hot at this time of year. It’s quieter as people pack up to head to their beach homes or on vacation elsewhere.

Not always a great time to start or end your 2 weeks in Argentina.

September to November is a lovely time to visit Buenos Aires. The avenues bloom with purple jacarandas – truly a beautiful sight. This is also a nice time to visit the north of the country when it’s not too hot.

Winter is manageable in Buenos Aires (the average temperature is 12 to 14 degrees Celcius), but it does come with rain. Patagonia at this time of year is often completely inaccessible in some parts (including El Chaltén which pretty much shuts down).

What to eat in Argentina

One of the highlights of a visit to Argentina is the food – and wine! During your visit, make sure to try some traditional favourites:

• Steak – vegetarians beware! You can’t go anywhere in Argentina without seeing steak on the menu. There are many different cuts, but most will be familiar. For steak lovers, 2 weeks in Argentina will be heaven for you!
• Empanadas – you’re going to eat SO many of these pasty-type delights on your Argentina visit.
• Choripan – a sausage (chorizo-style but rarely spicy) that’s served in bread.
• Locro – a traditional stew made of beans, corn, vegetables and meat, it’s mostly found in the north of Argentina.
• Provoleta – a disc of cheese that is cooked on the grill and then served still bubbling in a small cast iron skillet. Usually served as an appetiser.
• Dulce de leche – a creamy caramel sauce.
• Alfajores – sandwich cookies that are filled with dulce de leche. They’re often then smothered in chocolate.
• Ice cream – ice cream stores are everywhere in Argentina. The country’s Italian heritage has produced deliciously creamy ice cream and you must try dulce de leche flavour of course!
• Medialunas – croissant-like pastries that are usually eaten for breakfast or merienda (afternoon tea).

Language in Argentina

The official language of Argentina is Spanish. But your high school Spanish won’t cut it here.

Argentines actually speak Castellano and with a whole lot of hand gestures thanks to their Italian and Spanish heritage.

People use vos instead of tú, and “y” and “ll” sounds are completely different. Good luck!

Either way, try to learn a few key phrases – it’ll make your 2 weeks in Argentina much easier!

Many people do speak English, especially in Buenos Aires, but outside of the cities people may be shy to speak English.

If they do speak English, they’ll love to practice with you!

Money in Argentina

The economy in Argentina is… complicated, to say the least.

Even though I lived in Argentina for almost two years, I’m still no expert. Suffice it to say that the country’s currency, the peso, is continually fluctuating and prices change rapidly and regularly.

It’s wise to always have cash on hand, particularly smaller notes. Credit cards are accepted in larger touristy restaurants and in hotels, but elsewhere may not be accepted at all.

The famous mercado azul, or blue market (basically the black market), is an interesting aspect of Argentina’s economy, and can often result in a better exchange rate if you’re changing U.S. dollars.

The situation changes regularly, so always check the latest.

Safety in Argentina: Is Argentina Safe?

Argentina is a fairly safe country, especially when compared to other countries in South America. However, take precautions.

In Buenos Aires, watch out for pickpockets, especially on buses, the subte and in marketplaces.

I’ve been pickpocketed in Buenos Aires so I can unfortunately vouch for their skills! Keep your bags close to you, especially at restaurants and bars. Don’t pull out your phone in busy places or leave it on the table while you’re eating.

Motochorros are common: thieves on motorbikes ride past and snatch bags or even phones out of the hands of people sitting in taxis.

My tips for staying safe in a big city like Buenos Aires:

• Learn some basic Spanish, enough to get by in taxis and on public transport
• Travel by private transport at night
• Be careful with your cash and only carry with you what you need. Also, put money in different spots. Some could go in your wallet, some in another pocket, some (for the ladies) inside your bra
• Don’t flash around expensive cameras and phones – these items are expensive in Argentina and enticing for thieves
• Try to blend in: don’t walk around with a map in your hand and camera slung around your neck, don’t speak loudly in English
• Don’t carry your passport around with you, take a copy instead
• If something does happen, don’t fight back! Valuables can be replaced, your life cannot

Beyond a few rogue characters, you’ll find Argentines to be incredibly friendly and welcoming and should have a safe visit.